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  • Best Dog Beds for Big Dogs: Orthopedic, Bolster, Elevated and More

    Best Dog Beds for Big Dogs: Orthopedic, Bolster, Elevated and More

    Big dogs need big beds, but size is only part of the equation. Large and giant breeds put more weight on their beds, so cheap stuffing flattens quickly, leaving them lying on the hard floor. A supportive, durable bed can make a real difference to your dog’s comfort.

    This guide explains the main types of beds for big dogs, how to size one and which features matter most. We describe products and materials based on published information rather than our own testing.

    This article is general information, not veterinary advice. If your dog has arthritis, hip dysplasia or other joint problems, ask your veterinarian what type of support they recommend.

    Why Bed Choice Matters for Big Dogs

    • Weight: Heavier dogs compress fill more, so supportive materials matter.
    • Joints: Many large breeds are prone to joint issues, and a supportive surface may help them rest comfortably.
    • Durability: Big dogs can be rough on bedding through digging, circling and chewing.
    • Heat: Large, thick-coated dogs often run warm and may prefer cooler surfaces.

    Types of Dog Beds

    Orthopedic Memory Foam Beds

    These beds use solid memory foam or a combination of support foam and memory foam.

    • Pros: Conforms to the body and distributes weight evenly. Often recommended for older or heavy dogs.
    • Cons: Can retain heat. Quality varies widely, so look for thick, dense foam.

    Look for: A foam thickness appropriate to your dog’s weight, a removable washable cover and a waterproof liner.

    Bolster Beds

    These have raised sides around some or all edges.

    • Pros: Many dogs like resting their heads on the bolster. Great for dogs that curl up.
    • Cons: Reduces flat sleeping space. Bolsters may be chewed.

    Elevated Cot Beds

    A fabric surface stretched over a raised frame.

    • Pros: Allows airflow underneath, which can keep dogs cooler. Easy to clean and good for outdoor use. Popular brands include Coolaroo and Kuranda.
    • Cons: Less cushioning. Some dogs need time to get used to them.

    Pillow and Mattress Beds

    Flat, cushioned beds stuffed with fiberfill or foam pieces.

    • Pros: Inexpensive and easy to move.
    • Cons: Fiberfill tends to flatten and clump, especially under big dogs.

    Chew-Resistant Beds

    Made with tough fabrics such as ballistic nylon or with aluminum frames.

    • Pros: Designed to survive determined chewers.
    • Cons: No bed is truly indestructible. Often more expensive.

    Cooling Beds

    Gel-infused foam or pressure-activated cooling pads.

    • Pros: Can provide relief for warm dogs.
    • Cons: Cooling effect may be temporary, and some materials are not chew-safe.

    How to Size a Bed for a Large Dog

    1. Measure your dog from nose to base of tail while they lie stretched out.
    2. Add several inches to that length for comfortable space.
    3. Observe sleep style: Dogs that sprawl need rectangular beds. Dogs that curl may like round or bolster beds.
    4. Check the sleeping surface, not just the outer dimensions. Bolsters can take up a lot of space.

    When in doubt, go bigger. Many large-breed owners find that beds labeled “large” are too small and need “extra large” or “jumbo” sizes.

    Features to Look For

    Foam Quality and Thickness

    Thicker, denser foam is less likely to bottom out under a heavy dog. Look for published foam density or thickness specifications if available.

    Removable, Washable Cover

    Big dogs bring in a lot of dirt and hair. A removable cover that fits in your washing machine makes cleaning much easier.

    Waterproof Liner

    A liner protects foam from accidents, drool and spills, extending the life of the bed. Especially useful for older dogs or puppies.

    Non-Slip Bottom

    Prevents the bed from sliding on hard floors, which helps dogs with mobility issues get on and off safely.

    Low Entry Height

    Older dogs or dogs with joint issues may find it easier to step onto a lower-profile bed.

    Warranty

    Some manufacturers offer warranties on foam that cover flattening. Read the terms carefully.

    Matching the Bed to Your Dog

    Dog Type Possible Bed Type
    Senior or heavy dog Thick orthopedic foam with a low entry
    Dog that runs hot Elevated cot or cooling bed
    Dog that curls up Bolster bed or round bed
    Dog that sprawls Large rectangular mattress or foam bed
    Destructive chewer Chew-resistant cot or tough fabric bed
    Crate sleeper Crate pad sized to the crate

    Beds for Crates

    If your dog sleeps in a crate, choose a crate pad that fits the crate’s interior dimensions so it does not bunch up. For puppies or dogs that chew bedding, start with a durable mat and supervise. Read our crate training schedule and our guide to the best dog crates.

    Caring for a Dog Bed

    • Vacuum regularly to remove hair and dirt.
    • Wash covers according to the manufacturer’s directions.
    • Spot clean foam if necessary, but avoid soaking it unless the instructions allow.
    • Rotate or flip the bed if possible to spread wear.
    • Check for damage such as loose stuffing or zippers your dog could chew and swallow.
    • Replace beds that have flattened and no longer provide support.

    Where to Place the Bed

    • In a spot where your dog can see family activity but has some quiet.
    • Away from drafts, heaters and direct sunlight.
    • Some owners keep a bed in the bedroom and another in the living area.

    Signs It Is Time for a New Bed

    Beds wear out gradually, so it is easy to miss when one stops doing its job. Watch for:

    • Visible flattening where your dog usually lies, especially in the middle
    • Your dog choosing the floor or another surface over the bed
    • Lumpy or clumped fill that no longer spreads evenly
    • Persistent odor that remains after washing the cover
    • Torn seams or exposed foam that could be chewed and swallowed
    • Difficulty getting up from a bed that has become too soft or sunken

    A simple test is to press your hand into the center of the bed. If you can easily feel the floor through it, the bed is probably no longer supportive enough for a big dog.

    Budgeting for Quality

    A well-made foam bed for a large dog often costs more up front than a basic pillow bed. Some owners find that a single sturdy bed outlasts several cheaper ones, but that depends on your dog’s habits. If your dog is still chewing, it may make sense to use an inexpensive, durable mat until that phase passes and invest in a better bed afterward.

    Multiple Beds

    Many big dogs like to follow their people from room to room. Having a supportive bed in the main living area and a second, simpler bed in the bedroom can give your dog a comfortable place to rest wherever the family is.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Do big dogs need orthopedic beds?

    Not every large dog needs one, but supportive foam is a popular choice for heavy, older or arthritic dogs. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations.

    How thick should a dog bed be for a large dog?

    It depends on the materials and your dog’s weight. Thicker, denser foam generally provides better support for heavy dogs.

    How often should I replace my dog’s bed?

    Replace it when it flattens, tears or no longer cleans well. Frequency depends on quality and use.

    Are elevated dog beds good for big dogs?

    Many big dogs like them for airflow and coolness, especially outdoors. Dogs that like to curl up or that need more cushioning may prefer a foam bed.

    What can I do if my dog keeps chewing their bed?

    Try a chew-resistant bed, provide appropriate chew toys and increase exercise and enrichment. See our guide to toys for heavy chewers. Ask a trainer if chewing persists.

    The Bottom Line

    The best bed for a big dog is supportive, appropriately sized, easy to clean and suited to how your dog sleeps. Orthopedic foam beds are a strong choice for heavy or older dogs, elevated cots work well for warm dogs and bolster beds suit curlers. Measure carefully, go bigger when in doubt and choose a bed with a washable cover and waterproof liner so it lasts.


    Editorial note: Woof Wisely is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

  • Crate Training Schedule: A Step-by-Step Plan for Puppies and Adult Dogs

    Crate Training Schedule: A Step-by-Step Plan for Puppies and Adult Dogs

    A crate can become your dog’s favorite safe spot, a cozy den for naps, a calm place during busy moments and a useful tool for house training and travel. But crate training only works when it is introduced gradually and positively. Rushing it, or using the crate as punishment, can make dogs anxious about it.

    This guide explains how to choose and set up a crate, provides a step-by-step training plan and offers a sample daily schedule for puppies.

    This article is general information, not veterinary or behavioral advice. If your dog shows signs of distress, panic or separation anxiety in the crate, stop and consult your veterinarian or a qualified behavior professional.

    Why Crate Train?

    • House training: Many dogs naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, which helps with potty training.
    • Safety: Prevents chewing hazards and accidents when you cannot supervise.
    • Travel: Familiarity with a crate makes car rides, vet visits and travel easier.
    • Rest: Gives dogs, especially puppies, a quiet place to settle and sleep.

    A crate should never be a place for punishment or for leaving a dog for excessively long periods.

    Choosing the Right Crate

    Size

    Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. For puppies, a crate with a divider panel lets you adjust the space as they grow. Too much space early on may allow a puppy to use one end as a bathroom.

    Types

    • Wire crates: Good ventilation and visibility, often foldable and come with dividers.
    • Plastic crates: More enclosed and den-like, and often used for travel.
    • Soft-sided crates: Lightweight and portable, best for dogs already calm in crates.
    • Heavy-duty crates: For dogs that escape or chew through standard crates.

    See our guide to the best dog crates for more detail.

    Setting Up the Crate

    • Location: Place the crate in a part of the home where people spend time, such as the living room, so your dog does not feel isolated. Some owners move it to the bedroom at night, especially for puppies.
    • Bedding: Add a comfortable bed or blanket. For puppies that chew bedding, start with something durable or a crate mat. See dog beds for big dogs.
    • Cover: Some dogs like a partially covered crate that feels den-like.
    • Comfort: Keep it away from direct sun, drafts and heaters.

    Step-by-Step Crate Training Plan

    Move at your dog’s pace. Some dogs progress in days, others take weeks.

    Step 1: Introduce the Crate

    • Leave the door open and let your dog explore.
    • Toss treats near and then inside the crate.
    • Praise calm interest. Do not force your dog inside.

    Step 2: Feed Meals in the Crate

    • Place food bowls near the crate, then gradually move them inside.
    • Once your dog eats comfortably inside, close the door briefly during meals and open it as soon as they finish.
    • Gradually extend the time the door stays closed after meals.

    Step 3: Practice Short Sessions

    • Use a cue like “crate” or “bed,” toss a treat inside and praise when your dog enters.
    • Close the door, sit nearby for a few minutes, then let your dog out calmly.
    • Gradually increase time, then begin leaving the room for short periods.

    Step 4: Leave the House Briefly

    • Once your dog is calm in the crate for longer periods with you nearby, practice short departures.
    • Keep departures and arrivals low-key.
    • Provide a safe chew or food puzzle to keep your dog occupied. See slow and puzzle feeders.

    Step 5: Use the Crate Overnight

    • For puppies, many owners keep the crate near the bed at first so they can hear when the puppy needs to go out.
    • Gradually move the crate to its permanent spot if needed.

    How Long Can a Dog Stay in a Crate?

    Puppies have limited bladder control. A rule of thumb often shared by trainers is that puppies can hold it roughly one hour for each month of age, up to a limit, but every puppy is different. Adult dogs also need regular breaks, exercise and social time.

    Avoid crating any dog for so long that they cannot meet their needs for bathroom breaks, exercise, play and companionship. If you work long hours, consider a dog walker, daycare or a midday visit.

    Sample Daily Schedule for a Young Puppy

    Adjust this to your puppy’s age, needs and your routine.

    Time Activity
    6:30 a.m. Wake up; potty break outside
    6:45 a.m. Breakfast (in crate or near it); potty break
    7:15 a.m. Play and short training session
    8:00 a.m. Potty break; nap in crate
    10:00 a.m. Potty break; play and exploration
    11:00 a.m. Nap in crate
    12:30 p.m. Potty break; lunch if fed three meals; play
    1:30 p.m. Nap in crate
    3:30 p.m. Potty break; walk or play; short training
    5:00 p.m. Dinner; potty break
    5:30 p.m. Family time, chew toy, calm play
    7:00 p.m. Potty break; nap
    9:00 p.m. Potty break; quiet time
    10:30 p.m. Final potty break; bedtime in crate
    Overnight Potty breaks as needed for young puppies

    Puppies also usually need to go out after waking, eating, drinking and playing.

    Crate Training Adult Dogs

    Adult dogs can learn to love a crate, too, but some may have past negative experiences. Go slowly:

    • Start with the door open for longer.
    • Use high-value treats and meals inside the crate.
    • Keep early closed-door sessions very short.
    • Watch for signs of stress such as heavy panting, drooling or attempts to escape.

    Common Mistakes

    • Using the crate as punishment.
    • Moving too fast.
    • Letting a puppy out when it whines without considering whether it needs a potty break. If you suspect a potty need, take your puppy outside calmly and return it to the crate afterward.
    • Crating for too long.
    • Leaving collars or tags on that could catch in crate wire. Many owners remove collars in the crate.
    • Not providing enough exercise and mental stimulation outside the crate.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Should I put water in the crate?

    For short periods, many owners skip water. For longer periods, or in warm weather, a spill-resistant bowl or attachable water bottle may be appropriate. Ask your veterinarian about your dog’s needs.

    What if my puppy cries at night?

    Some crying is normal at first. Keep the crate close, take the puppy out if it needs to potty and keep nighttime trips quiet and boring. If crying is intense or persistent, consult a trainer or veterinarian.

    Can I crate train an older dog?

    Yes. Many adult dogs adapt well with a slow, positive approach.

    Should I cover the crate?

    Many dogs find a partially covered crate calming. Make sure there is plenty of ventilation.

    When can my dog stop using the crate?

    Many owners keep the crate as a safe space, door open, for life. Others gradually give dogs more freedom once they are reliable in the house.

    The Bottom Line

    Successful crate training is gradual, positive and consistent. Choose the right size crate, make it comfortable, introduce it slowly with treats and meals and keep sessions short at first. Follow a predictable schedule with plenty of potty breaks, exercise and attention, and your dog may come to see the crate as a favorite resting place.


    Editorial note: Woof Wisely is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

  • Best No-Pull Dog Harnesses: How to Choose One That Fits and Works

    Best No-Pull Dog Harnesses: How to Choose One That Fits and Works

    If your dog drags you down the sidewalk, you are not alone. Pulling on the leash is one of the most common frustrations dog owners face. A no-pull harness will not teach your dog to walk nicely by itself, but the right one can make walks more comfortable and give you better control while you work on training.

    This guide explains how no-pull harnesses work, the main design types, how to fit one properly and which popular models are worth comparing. We describe products based on their published features and design rather than our own testing, so always check sizing charts and return policies.

    This article is general information about dog gear. It is not veterinary or behavioral advice. If your dog has neck, back or joint problems, or if pulling comes with reactivity or fear, talk to your veterinarian or a qualified trainer.

    How No-Pull Harnesses Work

    Most no-pull harnesses use a front clip, a leash attachment ring on the chest. When the dog pulls forward, tension on the leash gently turns the dog’s body to the side, toward you, which reduces the forward momentum of pulling.

    Some harnesses add a back clip on top between the shoulder blades, so you can switch between front and back attachment or use both with a double-ended leash.

    Why Not Just Use a Collar?

    Many owners prefer harnesses for dogs that pull because harnesses distribute pressure across the chest and shoulders rather than concentrating it on the neck. Flat collars are still useful for holding ID tags.

    Types of No-Pull Harnesses

    Front-Clip Harnesses

    The classic no-pull design with a leash ring at the chest.

    • Pros: Simple and effective at redirecting pulling.
    • Cons: Some designs with a strap across the front of the shoulders may affect natural shoulder movement, depending on fit. The leash can tangle around the front legs.

    Dual-Clip Harnesses

    Have both a front and back clip.

    • Pros: Flexibility. Use the front clip for training and the back clip once your dog walks well or for hikes.
    • Cons: Slightly more complex to put on.

    Y-Shaped Harnesses

    These harnesses form a Y shape on the chest, leaving the shoulders free to move. Many dual-clip harnesses use this shape.

    • Pros: Often recommended by trainers and canine fitness professionals for freedom of movement.
    • Cons: Fit is especially important to prevent slipping out.

    Head Halters

    Not harnesses, but often considered alongside them. A head halter fits over the dog’s muzzle and behind the ears, steering the head. Head halters require careful introduction so the dog is comfortable wearing one, and they should never be used with sudden jerks on the leash.

    Tightening or Martingale-Style Harnesses

    Some harnesses tighten slightly when the dog pulls. Many trainers prefer designs that do not tighten for comfort reasons. Use any tightening design gently and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

    Features to Look For

    • Adjustability: Multiple adjustment points help you achieve a good fit.
    • Padding: Soft padding on the chest and belly straps can increase comfort.
    • Sturdy hardware: Metal leash rings and strong buckles.
    • Easy on and off: Step-in or over-the-head designs suit different dogs.
    • Reflective trim: Helps with visibility on early morning and evening walks.
    • Handle on the back: Useful for helping dogs over obstacles or into a car.
    • Size range: Make sure the harness is available in a size for your dog’s measurements.

    Popular No-Pull Harnesses to Compare

    Ruffwear Front Range Harness

    A padded harness with a front clip and a back clip, available in many sizes and colors. Popular with active owners and hikers.

    2 Hounds Design Freedom No-Pull Harness

    A dual-clip harness with a martingale loop on the back and a velvet-lined chest strap. Often sold with a double-ended leash for using both attachment points.

    PetSafe Easy Walk Harness

    A well-known front-clip harness designed specifically to discourage pulling. It is widely available and often one of the more affordable options. Its strap crosses the front of the chest, so check fit carefully.

    Blue-9 Balance Harness

    A Y-shaped harness with many adjustment points, designed for a customizable fit. Often recommended by trainers.

    Rabbitgoo No-Pull Harness

    A budget-friendly padded harness with front and back clips, sold widely online.

    Compare current sizing, materials and return policies before buying, since models are updated over time.

    How to Measure Your Dog

    Most manufacturers size harnesses by chest girth, and some also use neck measurements and weight.

    1. Chest girth: Measure around the widest part of the rib cage, just behind the front legs.
    2. Neck: Measure around the base of the neck where a collar would sit.
    3. Weight: Use as a secondary guide only.

    If your dog falls between sizes, check the manufacturer’s guidance.

    How to Fit a Harness Properly

    • Two-finger rule: You should be able to fit about two fingers between the harness straps and your dog’s body.
    • Chest strap position: The front strap or Y should sit on the breastbone, not low across the throat.
    • Belly strap position: The strap behind the front legs should not rub the armpits.
    • No twisting: The harness should sit evenly without rotating when the dog moves.
    • Escape test: Gently pull the harness forward over the dog’s head. If it slips off easily, tighten it.

    Check fit regularly, especially for growing puppies or dogs whose weight changes.

    Training Still Matters

    A harness is a tool, not a solution. To teach loose-leash walking:

    • Reward the position you want. Treat and praise when your dog walks near you with a loose leash.
    • Stop when the leash gets tight. Wait for the leash to loosen, then continue.
    • Change direction. Turning and walking the other way encourages your dog to pay attention.
    • Practice in low-distraction areas before busy streets.
    • Keep sessions short and positive.

    Consider a positive reinforcement trainer, especially for strong or reactive dogs. See our puppy shopping checklist and crate training schedule for more on early training.

    Pair Your Harness With the Right Leash

    A standard 6-foot leash works well for most training. Retractable leashes can encourage pulling. See our guide to choosing a dog leash.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Do no-pull harnesses really work?

    Many owners find front-clip harnesses reduce pulling and improve control, especially combined with training. Results vary by dog.

    Are no-pull harnesses bad for dogs’ shoulders?

    Some experts have raised concerns that straps crossing the front of the shoulders may restrict movement. Y-shaped harnesses that leave shoulders free are a popular alternative. Ask your veterinarian if your dog has orthopedic concerns.

    Can my dog wear a harness all day?

    Many experts recommend removing harnesses when your dog is not walking to prevent rubbing and matting, and to keep the dog from getting caught on objects.

    What size harness should I buy for a puppy?

    Measure often, choose an adjustable harness and expect to size up as your puppy grows.

    Should I use a front clip or back clip?

    Front clips help with pulling. Back clips are comfortable for dogs that already walk well. Dual-clip harnesses let you use either.

    The Bottom Line

    The best no-pull harness is one that fits your dog well, redirects pulling gently and is comfortable to wear. Front-clip and dual-clip Y-shaped harnesses are popular choices. Measure carefully, check fit regularly and pair the harness with consistent, positive training for calmer, happier walks.


    Editorial note: Woof Wisely is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.